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If you want to order a corset, you must first decide which one would be the best for you. Take this step by step guide, which will help your with all the important details.
1. Underbust, or overbust?
Corset
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| Overbust |
- can be worn on top without any other underwear or clothes |
- not good as underwear - flattens the bust |
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- more restriction of the chest and upper torso in general; you cannot bend down in an overbust |
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- doesn't suit women with smaller breasts (and men) - in a corset they will look completely flat |
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| Underbust |
- can be worn as underwear with a bra; it is completely unnoticeable |
- slims the waist, but doesn't create the smooth hourglass appearance as overbust |
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- can be worn on top with a shirt or blouse |
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- good style for men |
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In short, if you want to spice up your bridal gown, evening gown or party dress and are a woman with at least cup B breasts, choose overbust. If you want a more all-purpose corset that can be worn over or under your clothes, if you have smaller breasts or are a male, go for an underbust.
And there's another thing you should consider - it is more risky to make an overbust corset without fittings than an underbust. I do not do muslin fittings, because I already tried and it did more harm than good (a muslin will never tell you how the actual corset will fit). But I have good experience with overbust corsets made without fittings.
If you have a plumper figure - say we 170/100 (5'6"/220) and more - you should also consider having your corset made in a place closer to you, so you could go to fittings. Again, I have experience with plump women, but it is a little riskier to make such corset without fittings.
Examples of corsets. A typical overbust (right) with heart-shaped top line and smooth curve at bottom. This one can look pretty good even on A breasts (but B and higher recommended), if you have slim waist and round hips. To the left, an underbust corset, worn with a shirt with wide-cut full sleeves. Even if nature did give you the smallest breasts, this style will give you a great boost.
2. Top and bottom line
You can choose from these top and bottom line styles. The bottoms can be combined with any of the overbust and underbust top line styles.
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| Overbust Sweetheart |
Overbust Straight |
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| Underbust Pointed |
Underbust Slightly Pointed |
Underbust Curve |
Underbust Straight |
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| Hips Pointed |
Hips Curved |
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Examples from our gallery:
Underbust Curve, Hips Curved
Underbust Slightly Pointed, Hips Pointed
Underbust Pointed, Hips Curved
Overbust Sweetheart, Hips Curved
3. Boning
You can choose from Desira and spring steel boning. For experienced tightlacers and males wanting a smooth female figure (and thus needing to press the ribs inward a bit) steel might be the right material. For the others - especially for beginners and non-tightlacing people I strongly recommend Desira. See this text.
4. Lacing and busk
As with overbust and underbust corsets, both back-lacing and front-lacing corsets have their advantages and disadvantages. The main reason against back-lacing is the fact that you can't put it on alone; well, you can, but it will cost you much more effort and you will never pull the laces as tight as an other person, standing behind you, can. Front-lacing corset is easier to put on and the lacing is decorative. If you want to tightlace and have a partner who will help you with lacing, choose back-lacing corset. Otherwise, you should consider front-lacing.
The busk is a metal component - two metal bones with hooks and eyes - put in the middle of the front of the corset. It's advantages are two - with a busk, it is a little easier to put the corset on and take it off; and it looks interesting. When putting on a corset with busk, you can lace the back loosely, put the corset around you, close the busk and then have somebody to tighten the laces. When taking it off, you unclasp the busk. Without a busk, putting the corset on is the same (lace loosely, pull on like a t-shirt, tighten laces), putting it off means you must loose the laces first (but you don't have to pull them out completely), then pull the corset off over your head.
The major disadvantage of the busk is that it likes to unclasp unpromptedly, if the corset is not laced really tight. Especially overbust corsets tend to do that; if you put on an overbust with front busk and lace it just snug or a little tighter, but not too tight (because you want to, for example, dance without fainting), and then bend over a little, sit or make any similar movement against the corset, the busk may unclasp, usualy from the top. So, if you plan to wear your corset as a part of an evening gown and don't plan to tightlace, or at least not very much, I strongly recommend no busk.
5. Color and materials
I offer materials in all usual colors: white, champagne (ivory), pale silver, red, burgundy, pink, pale blue, royal blue, navy, bottle green, lavender etc. But I will try to satisfy any wish, so feel free to ask. If you want a bubblegum pink corset with yellow casing and frilled turquoise lace, don't hesitate to ask for it :)
6. Other details
Man or woman - if you are a man and want a corset, don't forget to write that. Many men are too shy and don't ask for a corset directly - they say it's for their girlfriend or wife. Don't do that - if you want a corset to feminize your figure, ask for a pipe-stem; if you want a corset for reinforcing and posture, ask for a classic male corset.
I usualy make the corset with waist 8-10 cm (3-4 inches) smaller than your natural waist, but I can make it bigger or smaller.
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